Thursday, September 12, 2013

Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary, Uganda: Safari Day #1

The next few posts on this blog will be chronicling a 3 day Safari I took in Western Uganda during the last week. It is September and the Rainy season here, which impacted the trip both good and bad. I don't think there is a "perfect time" to take a safari, but perhaps better times than others to consider coming based on your interest area. If you were like me and just wanted a great overview of "The Big 5" and was generally up for a typical Safari experience then anytime of the year would be sufficient. 

The information supplied is my best attempt to inspire or encourage readers to make the trip to Africa for a safari themselves. It is a "Bucket List" type of thing and ranks (for me) up there with some of the most memorable experiences of my life. I have never been on any other safari, so I cannot compare to other countries or touring outfitters or guides. This is solely my experience so take it at surface value.

Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary


Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary is home to Uganda's only rhinos – making this a must for anyone who has come to Uganda to see Africa's "Big Five"! (Elephant, Lion, Buffalo, Rhino and Leopard)

Tracking these enormous creatures on foot through the savannah and swamps is a thrilling experience, and one I found to be so exciting. We arrived after about a 4 hour drive from Gulu with our tour guide, driver and two of us -- another volunteer Midwife from Israel made the trip with me.


This sanctuary is a result of the Rhino Reintroduction program after the last Rhino was killed in Uganda in in 1983. The war was going on here during the 80's (see previous posts re. the Birth Center I am working at and the history of the war) and as a result there was very little control over poaching rhinos. It is the horns that are prized -- mainly for Chinese Medicine and the liquid inside that is equivalent to Viagra.



Rhino Fund Uganda was formed to protect with the ambition stated as:
"To everyone young or old who has had the privilege of seeing a rhino in the wild or even in a zoo, you will be horrified to see what is happening to these magnificent animals. "

(All of this info was taken from their website, including the pictures)

There was a time when rhino poachers were almost always on foot, armed with only rifles. This trade has become so big and so financially beneficial, we are now contending with the following:
1. Helicopters
2. Poachers with military training
3. Expert veterinarians
4. Top of the range communication and equipment
5. Lots and lots of money

 

Most rhinos being poached today are darted with the very same immobilizing drugs that we use when we are giving them veterinary care. The horror of this is that while this majestic animal’s horn is being hacked out of its face with a machete or panga or being cut off with a chain saw, the rhino is fully aware of what is happening to it. The pain it is going through can be compared with the immense pain you would feel if someone was chopping one of your limbs off while you are awake.     
 
There are many cases where the rhino carcass is found with tears running down what is left of its face and rhino with chopped off faces have been found wondering around while bleeding to death.

We are dealing with a rhino poaching mafia that is so organised, wealthy and so well protected by their legal aid it is like fighting a losing battle. When you win the battle of arresting the poacher or carrier, you then have the war of overpaid attorneys who are protecting these thieves to contend with. Clearly there is no difference between the man with the machete and the man with the porché – they are the very same breed of evil.

Close your eyes for a moment, picture this process of poaching, imagine the trauma and pain that this animal is going through for an age old tradition that has created a frenzy of greed amongst beings with no consciousness.

___

The reintroduction program has been given rhinos by South Africa and the USA and has bred 6 of it's own over the years. Each rhino has a name and a personality and our guide was great to talk about each of them as their own.

There is a guard that treks the rhinos 24 hours a day and is there solely to protect from poaching. Our guide said there had been no threats since the sanctuary opened, but they aren't willing to risk it.

Mainly the rhinos sleep during the day and eat and swim during the night. When we were there, we were able to drive into the sanctuary with our guide, kitted out in long pants and gum boots to go walking through the wet grassland savannah to find a group of them resting. The guard also helps with this as he always is able to communicate where the rhinos are.

The group I saw consisted of a few 'teenagers', one male and a few females. In July, a new rhino had been born and the guides were very diligent on keeping us away from that mother and baby as the suspicion that she would become aggressive and protective was high.

Interesting fact -- they only eat grass and are in fact vegan!

Once the group gets to #30, the introduction back into the wild in Uganda.  

 

 
 
 
 
 
You can see how close we got!

 
The sanctuary is a non-profit organization. There is no charge to come into the sanctuary itself, although money donated to Rhino Fund Uganda goes directly towards this program.
Accommodation is available on site - both camping and cottages, as well as a restaurant. This is also an excellent place for birding and trekking. There is a gift store available as well as opportunities to volunteer.

* A super cool opportunity for those of you into this sort of experience would be to come and volunteer as a Ranger. They accept volunteers from all over the world to help run this program and it would give you an up close look at animal protection and dealing with and handling large game. Perhaps a college student interested in veterinarian medicine, a biology major, or just someone out there that wants a cool experience!

Also inside the park were heards of African Long-Horned Steer, which I'd never seen before. They exist very peacefully with the rhinos.





This bird, which is the crested crane, Uganda's national animal.


Plus this really cool tree ... a cactus tree!

Overall, this place was a great site to see -- if nothing else because it is the only place you will see Rhinos in the wild, but also because it is a very easy add on, right to the South either coming or going to Murchison National Park for the game drives.

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